Learn to Surf 5: Jay and Rhys



It was December. The sea ran wild. The tide was high. Krui Left worked but not very big. However, the beach break in between Krui Left and Krui Right was big enough, and so was the Right.

There were not many surfers left. December is the very end of the season. The peak of the season is usually from March to October. However, you still can see some surfers for the rest of the months.


And there wasn’t anybody in the water this morning but Jay and Rhys. They both took the shorebreaks between the Left and the Right. I saw Jay just hung out on his board by the seashore. He looked like enjoying being swung up and down by the waves. He didn’t try to take the waves that consistently came around him. Meanwhile, a stone throw away, Rhys looked busy handling the surfs. He looked like enjoying the shorebreaks very much. He tried to ride more and more waves that come one after another. He rode on  his board up and down.


Not long afterward, Jay came out of the water. he said something to Rhys. He let him know that he was coming out.

“Hello Mister. What’s your name?” I asked.

“Jay.”

“Are you learning how to surf?”

“Oh, No. He is,” he said, pointing to Rhys that was left in the water.

“How is the surf going as of late?”

“It was big at the Beach Break. We surfed there yesterday” (The beach break here means Mandiri beach Break, about 10 km south.)  

“Oh, I see. I am learning to take photographs,” I said

“Yeah, that’s good for your blog.”

I was taken aback. How in the world does he know that I’ve got a blog.

“How do you know that I’ve got a blog?”

“You told me the other day.”

Oh, my gosh. Now I remember that I’ve talked to them before, in the camp where they were staying. This is not the first time I experience something like this. I talked to some whities and I asked their name again when I met them the other day as though I’ve never met them before. Fortunately, those white people always remember the meeting, and when we meet again, they recognize me first before I asked their name again.

“Oh, I see. Sorry I forget that we’ve met,” I said.

“But I forget the name of your blog. You need to write it down. You’ve got a pen?” he asked.

“No. Just remember. It’s H-A-S-I-M, apostrophe ‘S’ SPACE,”. If you google it, you can’t miss it,” I explained.

He nodded.

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