If you
ask me which French guy I know much, the answer is Philippe. I met Pihilippe
first five years ago. He came to Krui early July 2007. He rented a car from
someone in Bandarlampung and rode her all the way from Bandarlampung to Krui.
It was
the first time he came to Krui and he hadn’t had any idea about the surf spots
around Krui yet. He asked me to come with him to show him the surf spots in the
north. I agreed and I took the front seat by him and we hit the road up north the next
day. I showed him Jenny’s and Jimmy’s. luckily, Jenny was working quite big and
there were only two other surfers in the water. He surfed Jenny’s and I waited for
him in the car.
The next
day he asked me to come with him to explore the area up north, looking for some
other hidden surfs, if any. He was so curious whether there is some surf spots
hidden out there after the points. We drove way and way further from Jimmy’s
until we got lost deep into the jungle, but we failed to see any new unrevealed
surfs. We drove back then after driving hundred of miles where we didn’t see
any spot of seas any more.
The next
day, he found his fond of the surfs down south. He droved to Karang Nyimbur
almost every day. And when the surfs down south were not good, he turned to
Krui Left instead. And after staying in Krui for about a month, he left the
town for Bandarlampung.
However,
he left the town behind with a sore memory. Prior to the day when he left, he
hit the reef in Krui Left and he got a big cuts in his head. The cut looked so nasty
and he got his head bandaged almost half way. Luckily he was physically
OK and still able to drive the car back to Bandarlampung by himself the next
day.
Five years
over and I never heard about this guy any more. The email that I sent to him
got no reply. I totally lost contact with him since the day he left until all
of a sudden I saw him walking out of a restaurant in town in the middle of
July, 2012. “Hi, are you Philippe?” I said. “Yes,” he said, smiling and giving
me a handshake. He was sorry that he didn’t reply my email. He said he had a
serious problem that made him so depressed and felt so unhappy with his life. But
now he is OK and finds his life back.
This
time he drove his own car, a Toyota land cruiser that he bought in Bali three
years ago, two years after he came to Krui. He told me he built a house in Bali
three years ago and he went to the island whenever he had holiday. He got this car
transported by a lorry from Denpasar to Jakarta, and then he drove him all the
way from Jakarta to Krui. It was a tough jeep that looks like a war tank. And he
is a tough driver. He took only eleven hours to drive the car from Jakarta to
Krui, which is much faster compared to what buses might take.
During
this second stay, he regularly surfed Karang Nyimbur. He never surfed up north
but one. He commuted to Karang Nyimbur from his hotel in town every time when
the surf was on. I came with him when I had time. He droved like crazy. A ride
on his car was like a ride on a horse back when the road is bumpy.
However,
he was a bit luckier in this second trip to Krui. He never had a major accident
but some minor ones. About one week after he arrived, he hit the reef in Karang
Nyimbur and had some scratches on his back. But it didn’t hamper him from
surfing. He kept on surfing with those scratches after he put some antibiotics.
When he
was surfing Jenny’s, he had another minor one. “I had my board smacked my left
face,” he said. “It was so hurt and I think I got my left cheek swollen.” I
took a look at his left cheek, yes I saw it was abit swollen.
And on
the next other day, he told me a different unlucky story when he surfed Karang
Nyimbur. “I was being washed ashore by this swell,” he said. “And I got stranded on
the reef. It was strange that the reef where I was ended was very dry. The water
was all sucked back by the waves. And what surprised me so much is that there
was a swell that came all of a sudden and broke on me. I was struck and leveled
on the reef. My board got away a few meters from me. It was very strange. The waves
didn’t use to break at that reef. It is too close to the shore. I felt so hurt and
cranky and I thought I was gonna die. It was amazing that I am still alive and I
got no injury.” He said seriously.
3 comments:
helau nihan blogmu bang.
Ah, dang gheno....
Ampai pandai Adi bang Paman jo eksis di blog.
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