Small like shit. It was
Krui surfs this morning. When I arrived at the beach at about 09:05. Krui Right
was fucking small with nobody out, and so was The Left. And when I checked The
Peak, it was small too. It was even smaller than yesterday, and no surfer seen
in the water.
However, when I turned
to Mandiri, I saw the surf working like average with more than ten surfers
surfing. The swells were just like yestefay but the people seemed fewer.
When I arrived at the
beach perhaps about 09:20, I saw seven or eight people in the lineups in the
middle, in front of the warung where surfers usually park their bikes or cars. And
about three or four people at the southern swells close to the river mouth. And
nobody seen surfing in front of the Mandiri surf camp.
This earlier surfers
quit and got out of the water at about 10:30. And then came some young and
energetic surfers by a car and took the surf in the middle. This young guys
surfed better, moved faster, and splashed more water, and did more aerials than
the earlier surfers, who looked old and slow moving.
Later in the morning, onshore
wind coming and the water turned choppy, but this guys kept surfing. And when I
left the place at about 11:40 this guys still surfing.
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