Well, this is the story:
When I came to check Krui Left at about 8:50, the surf was working small, and I
saw nobody in the water. Then I left the place and went to check The LA, another
beach break about 8 km north from Krui Left. I saw the surf work, but it was
kind of average and nobody out either.
So I went back to Krui
Left to check it again. And I saw the surf work bigger, about two feet, and
four people were in the water at about 9:45. Ten minutes later, the surfer in
the yellow suit came out of the water, and went to his car. But then he came
back into the water again after a few minutes. I thought he lost a fin or
something.
At about 10:20, there
came about nine other surfers in two groups to check. I bet they all came from
The Point. Then a group of three people left the place, heading to The Peak. The
other group of six left talking in the park benches.
A few minutes later, I
left the beach for The Peak, after those three guys. However, when I arrived at
The Peak, I found those three surfers from The Point just talking to each other
at the beach. No surfing. And about thirty meters away from them, right in
front of the camp, five body boarders were putting on their gears, ready to hit
the water. “We’re five minutes late,” said one guy from the Point.
Yes, they were a
little bit too late for The Peak. Then they left the Peak, heading to The
Leftover or The Dragonfly.
I wondered why the
surfers from The Point all came out of their camps to the town. “Karang Nyimbur
was big, but it didn’t peel. No good. Only two surfers were in the water when I
left,” said one of the guy.
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