Krui surfs were all
working this morning. When I arrived at the beach at about 9:05, Krui Right was
working small with only three people out. And The Left was also working just as
small with about six people surfing. However, the swells were like inconsistent
in size. Sometimes they were big swells, but most of the times they were just
average.
And when I turned to
The Peak, the surf was also working with about five people surfing. The swells
were big but they were not barrels. Meanwhile, The Leftover was also working
but it was no good. This Portuguese body boarder was the only one that surf The
Leftover. And when I arrived at the beach, he was just finished surfing. “The
water was too shallow,” he said. “I nearly drive my board on the reef. I swallowed
a lot of water,” he added.
And when I came back
to The Left, I saw more people in the water. The swells were no bigger than
earlier in the morning. But when I turned my head to The Right, I saw more
people surfing. The swells in The Right were much bigger than earlier in the
morning, but they were like crumbly with no barrels.
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