There was a lot of fun
at Krui Left this morning. But when I arrived at the beach at about 8:50, the surf
was small. The weather was clear but it turned overcast sometimes. The waves
were small and there was kind of cross-wind. And the sea wasn’t very clean. Three
surfers were talking at the bench, waiting for the surf to turn good.
I left The Left and
went to The Peak, but it was just the same. It was small and nobody out.
But when I got back to
The Left at about 9:20, I saw one surfer walk into the water. Then another
surfer. Then some other surfers coming by a car. So there were nine people
altogether in the surf. This people must have come from The Point. This guy
that I talked to told me that it was big at The Point, but it was too shallow. Nobody
out, he said.
First it was about two
feet, but later the waves became bigger and bigger, up to three and a half feet
at the biggest sense. This nine peole in the water enjoyed themselves very
much. And when the rain came at about 10:20, it was even more fun. The rain
shaped the surf even better, though it turned the sky white all over.
The rain stopped at
about 11:10, but the nine people still there in the water.
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