Krui
Left was big again this morning, and it was more epic. The swells pretty much
looked like yesterday, big and long with barrels. The surfers were more hectic
riding the swells one after another. But there were pauses though. Some times,
it was flat like a floor when the waves didn’t come, but when they come, they
just couldn’t stop.
There
were about eight surfers in the water when I arrived at the beach a few minutes
before 10. And then, a few minutes after 10, more surfers came to join in, and
some others came out of the water, so the number remained about eight or nine.
Among the surfers, there were two or three beautiful ladies and a local boy.
The ladies were kind of beginners though, but this local boy surf pretty well
for his age.
And
when it was still big when I left the beach at about 11:30, and there were four
or five surfers left in the water.
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