September Stroke 9: Big and Epic

Big and epic. There is no other word to describe Krui Left this morning. When I came to the beach at about 9:20, I saw Krui Left was working about 3 to four feet, sometimes bigger though, and I saw about eleven people in the water. But Krui Right wasn’t as big, and there was nobody out.

One surfer got out of the water a few minutes after I arrived. Another surfer came to check but he left a few minutes later. Then came two other surfers to check but the went away seeing that there were already a lot of people in the water. That’s all surfers I saw coming to the beach until I left the place at about 10:00. 

Arriving at The Peak, I saw it was working but it wasn’t very big. It was just as big as yesterday but I saw nobody in the water. However, an English body boarder that arrived by the beach almost at the same time as I did decided then to take the surf. And when I walked down to the sand I saw two body boarders walking out of the surf. They seemed to have just surfed The Leftover. But when I talked to them they told me that they got out of the water for sunscreen and they would come back to the water to surf The Peak.

And so there were three people in the water at The Peak at about 10:20. But there were more surfers coming a few minutes later so the number made seven. And this seven surfers remained in the water until I left about 11:20. And when I came back to The Left, it was still big with about twelve people surfing.

This surfers that I met told me that it was big at the point, but the surf was a mess and was at the wrong direction. “There was only three people surfed. That’s why we come here,” he said.