August Smack 7: LA

This is the first time I saw someone surf LA. Though I have heard about this surf many times, and I  had been here before, but I’ve never seen someone surfing. And after checking Krui Left and found it was small with nobody out this morning, I went straight away to this surf, which located about seven km north of Krui town.

LA is a beachy surf just like Mandiri. It is very similar to Mandiri which the waves break on the beach and polluted with gray sand, and which you have to struggle hard to paddle out.  But more to the middle the waves are clean and the water is clear.

When I arrived at the beach at about ten o’clock, I saw two Spanish surfers just about to get into the water, putting their gears and creaming their bodies with sunscreen. They parked their bike a little closer to the sand, pass the small creek. The problem is it’s not easy to park your bike here. And then you cannot check your bike from the water while you are surfing unless you park it in the sand, close to the sea, which is not easy because you have to push it hard to drive through the sand. The sand is so vast and sloping, and you have to put your bike in the grass behind the slope.

This is not the first time for this two Spanish to surf LA. They had surfed here the days before. But this morning the tide was low and the surf wasn’t very good. They didn’t take it long. They quit after surfing about thirty minutes”. “It’s not good,” said one of them. “The tide is low.

”What about yesterday?” I asked.

“It was good.”

“Wasn’t it low tide, too?”

“Yes, but we surfed early in the morning, at six o’clock,” he said.    

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