This
is the first time I saw someone surf LA. Though I have heard about this surf
many times, and I had been here before,
but I’ve never seen someone surfing. And after checking Krui Left and found it
was small with nobody out this morning, I went straight away to this surf,
which located about seven km north of Krui town.
LA is
a beachy surf just like Mandiri. It is very similar to Mandiri which the waves
break on the beach and polluted with gray sand, and which you have to struggle
hard to paddle out. But more to the middle
the waves are clean and the water is clear.
When I
arrived at the beach at about ten o’clock, I saw two Spanish surfers just about
to get into the water, putting their gears and creaming their bodies with
sunscreen. They parked their bike a little closer to the sand, pass the small
creek. The problem is it’s not easy to park your bike here. And then you cannot
check your bike from the water while you are surfing unless you park it in the
sand, close to the sea, which is not easy because you have to push it hard to
drive through the sand. The sand is so vast and sloping, and you have to put
your bike in the grass behind the slope.
This is
not the first time for this two Spanish to surf LA. They had surfed here the
days before. But this morning the tide was low and the surf wasn’t very good. They
didn’t take it long. They quit after surfing about thirty minutes”. “It’s not
good,” said one of them. “The tide is low.
”What
about yesterday?” I asked.
“It
was good.”
“Wasn’t
it low tide, too?”
“Yes,
but we surfed early in the morning, at six o’clock,” he said.
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